oh fsck, now I have a busted Eibach

Like all the squeaks and bumps in my WK suspension weren't enough. I'm looking around and I find the bilsteins hitting the inner fender. WTF ?!?!

yeah, just like the title says;

indexing looks fine.......... considering.

fortunately, Eibach has a 10 year warranty.

See more pics at this link http://james-horvath.com/gallery/v/auto/jeep/eibach

And what's up with this upper ball joint ? Eibach adjustable # 5.23410K

EDIT: Well, Specialty Products Corp techs say it's normal for an Unloaded Follower Balljoint. As long as the lower BJ and the upper radial play is within tolerance, we're ok.


'07 WK Jeep Grand Cherokee Suspension installation FACTS:


1. Compress the spring (2).

2. Install the lower isolator (7).
3. Position the shock (8) into the coil spring (6) make sure the jounce bumper (4) is on the shock rod.
4. Install the upper isolator (5).

NOTE: For proper orientation the nub hole (1) in the upper shock plate (3) must be 180° in a centerline from the bracket (9) at the bottom of the shock (8).

5. Install the upper shock mount (3).
6. Install the shock upper mounting nut (2) Tighten to 39 N·m ( 25 ft. lbs.).
7. Decompress the spring.
8. Remove the shock assembly from the spring compressor tool (1).
9. Install the shock assembly (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/SHOCK - INSTALLATION).


1. Install the clevis bracket (4) to the shock (3) and tighten to 122 N·m (90 ft. lbs.).
2. Install the shock assembly (3) to the vehicle.

3. Install the four upper shock nuts (1), Tighten to 95 N·m ( 70 ft. lbs.).
4. Install the coolant reservoir bolt.
5. Reconnect the cruise control servo wiring connector.
6. Install the air box cover and air intake hose.
7. Raise the vehicle up.

8. Install the lower stabilizer bolt (3) at the lower control arm.
9. Install the lower clevis bolt (2) at the lower control arm and tighten to 169 N·m (125 ft. lbs.).
10. Install the upper ball joint into the knuckle (1) and tighten the nut to 75 N·m (55 ft. lbs.).
11. Install the disc brake rotor.
12. Install the caliper adaptor mounting bolts to 176 N·m (130 ft. lbs.).
13. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
14. Lower the vehicle.

Upper Balljoint

NOTE: Extreme pressure lubrication must be used on the threaded portions of the tool. This will increase the longevity of the tool and insure proper operation during the removal and installation process .

1. Install the ball joint (4) into the upper control arm (5) and press in using special tools C-4212-F (press) (2), 9652 (Driver) (1) and 8975–2 (Receiver) (4).

2. Install the upper ball joint (2) into the knuckle (3).
3. Install the upper ball joint retaining nut (4) and tighten to 95N·m (70 ft. lbs.).

4. Install the tire and wheel.
5. Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
6. Perform a wheel alignment (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT - STANDARD PROCEDURE).

Brake Calipers

1. Install the caliper (5) on the adapter (2).


2. Caliper slide pins should be free from debris and lightly lubricated..
3. Install the caliper slide pin bolts (2) and tighten to 44 N·m (32 ft. lbs.).
4. Gently lift one end of the slide pin boot to equalize air pressure, then release the boot and verify that the boot is fully covering the slide pin.

CAUTION: Verify brake hose is not twisted or kinked before tightening banjo bolt.

5. Install brake hose (5) to caliper (1) with new copper washers (6) and tighten banjo bolt (6) to 31 N·m (23 ft. lbs.).
6. Fill and bleed brake system.
7. Install wheel and tire assemblies.
8. Remove supports and lower vehicle.
9. Verify brake fluid level.





The following for Eibach kit # 5.23410K ....From the OEM SPC installation instructions; http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR/SPC_PROD_INSTALL.cfm?cmd=23410ins.txt&cmd2=23410

NOTE: 120 Ft/lb upper BJ top locking nut.

Jeep Adjustable Ball Joint

This part should only be installed by personnel who have the necessary skill, training and tools to do the job correctly and safely. Incorrect installation can result in personal injury, vehicle damage and / or loss of vehicle control.

1. This product is designed for camber or caster change.
2. Before beginning any alignment always check for loose or worn parts, tire pressure, and odd tire wear patterns.
3. Raise and support the front of the vehicle. Remove tire and wheel assembly. Remove nut from upper ball joint.
4. Break the ball joint to spindle taper using Specialty Products' tool #8370 then press out the ball joint using either #7250 or #40920 ball joint press or equivalent.
5. Position slide plate (#2) on underside of arm. Align slot in slide plate so that it points directly towards the tire for camber change or towards the front of the vehicle for caster change. Combination change can be achieved by aligning the plate at an angle depending on the desired combination of angles needed.
6. Press the slide plate into position using ball joint press.
7. Install ball joint through slot and align machined grooves. The ball joint shaft is offset from the mounting stud and should be positioned in the proper direction to give the most desired change.
8. Install top plate (#1) with the recessed area down over the flange on the control arm. Install washer and top nut and tighten lightly. Position top nut to fit in recess of washer.
9. Install ball joint stud into spindle, torque nut to manufacturer's specification.
10. Reinstall tire and wheel assembly. Install alignment equipment and re-compensate.
11. Adjust camber and/or caster by slightly loosening top lock nut and sliding joint.
12. Tighten top lock nut to 120 lb-ft.
Always check for proper clearance between suspension components and other components of the vehicle.
13. Re-check camber, set toe and road test vehicle.



NOTES taken from the net (CAUTION ! CONFIRM VERACITY):

Torque Specs


Top strut mount (4 bolts) - 70 ft lb
Clevis pinch bolt - 90 ft lb (this one's for Ace)
Lower clevis bolt - 125 ft lb
Stabilizer end link lower - 85 ft lb
Stabilizer end link upper - 80 ft lb (if you're replacing these too)
Suspension upgright ball joint - 55 ft lb (apparently only I did this)
Caliper mount bolts - 130 ft lb (!)
Top nut for strut - 25 ft lb


Shock top - 70 ft lb
Shock bottom - 85 ft lb
Stabilizer link to body - 75 ft lb
Stabilizer link to swaybar - 65 ft lb (if you're replacing these too)
Bump stop "cup" - 40 ft lb



eibach adj. BJ

Get rid of that stupid BJ thing. To me,. it ALWAYS looks bad.

if its in the budget get you some jeepinbyal upper control arms. these will allow a 100% correct alignment as well as get rid of that scary looking eibach BJ.


Yeah, thx for the comment

Yeah, thx for the comment Rob. Even though the Jeep is strictly street I have concerns about the Eibach follower BJs. In certain suspension loadings I believe I hear the sound of the BJ going to extents, i.e. unloading. Brrr, Scary.

Anyway, given that I paired Eibach 1.5" drop springs with Bilstein gas struts I don't think I even need an adjustable upper BJ. Maybe I'll swap em out one day, though it's a real pain in the arse to compress the springs with the basic compressors.


based on your post

and the fact that eibach warrantied your spring....i bought the eibach's for mine - THX.
well i bought the srt8 eibachs to go real low so i will need the a-arms if i want a clean alignment.

Nice, your GC must have that

Nice, your GC must have that slammed stance.

I have sloppy ball joints

sometimes they are sweaty too.

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